How to Cut Hair to Enhance Natural Curls
Cutting curly hair requires a unique approach to bring out its natural beauty. Unlike straight hair, curls need specialized techniques to maintain their shape, reduce frizz, and balance volume. Here’s a quick guide to achieving defined, manageable curls:
Key Takeaways:
- Choose the Right Technique: Methods like the DevaCut (dry, curl-by-curl) or Rëzo Cut (volume and balance) work best for curly hair.
-
Understand Your Curl Type:
- Type 2 (waves): Cut damp to reduce bulk.
- Type 3 (ringlets): Dry cutting for shaping.
- Type 4 (tight coils): Account for up to 75% shrinkage.
-
Use the Right Tools:
- Professional shears (e.g., Saki Kanzen Damascus, $355) for precision.
- Wide-tooth combs, sectioning clips, and microfiber towels to prevent frizz.
- Maintain Healthy Curls: Trim every 6–8 weeks, deep condition weekly, and apply curl-friendly products like curl creams and lightweight gels.
Quick Tip:
Hydration is key! Always keep curls moisturized during cuts and styling to enhance their natural bounce.
This guide covers everything from tools and techniques to post-cut care, ensuring your curls look their best every day.
Best Practices for Cutting Natural Curls
Curly Hair Basics
Getting the perfect cut starts with understanding your curl type and hair structure.
Curl Types and Patterns
Your curl pattern plays a big role in how your hair should be cut. Hairstylist Vernon François explains:
"Your curl type is determined by the shape of the follicle that your hair grows out of from your scalp. The flatter or more oval-shaped the follicle, the curlier your hair; the more circular the cross-section, the straighter your hair. Your curl pattern is also identified by the shape that the strands of hair make, whether they kink, curve, or wind around themselves into spirals."
Here’s a quick breakdown of curl types and their cutting needs:
| Curl Type | Pattern Description | Cutting Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Type 2 | "S" shaped waves | Cut when damp; focus on reducing bulk |
| Type 3 | Springy ringlets | Dry cutting works best for shaping curls |
| Type 4 | Tight coils and zigzags | Allow for shrinkage (up to 75%); leave extra length |
It’s common to have more than one curl pattern, with looser curls often appearing near the neckline. For Type 4C hair, which can shrink by 75% or more, cutting requires extra care to account for this. Beyond curl patterns, hair texture also plays a role in how cuts are tailored.
Hair Structure and Texture
Once you’ve identified your curl pattern, understanding your hair’s texture and porosity can refine the cutting approach. Anthony Dickey, owner of Hair Rules salon, highlights the importance of this:
"The real beauty of identifying your hair type is that you're better at understanding how to care for your texture so you can have more versatility."
Porosity Levels and Their Influence:
- Low porosity hair: Tightly packed cuticles mean cuts should avoid adding unnecessary bulk.
- High porosity hair: Open cuticles require techniques that help control frizz.
- Virgin hair: Often has higher porosity, which affects cutting strategies.
Stylists carefully evaluate curl pattern and porosity to tailor their approach. This ensures moisture retention, minimizes damage, and enhances the natural shape of your curls, all while supporting the unique needs of your hair structure.
Required Tools and Products
For cutting curly hair professionally, it's important to use tools specifically designed for textured hair.
Professional Scissors Guide
The right scissors are key to achieving clean, precise cuts while reducing frizz and preventing damage. Here are some recommended options:
| Scissors Model | Best For | Price | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Saki Kanzen Damascus | Professional stylists | $355.00 | Made with premium Japanese steel, ergonomic design |
| Purple Saki Velora 6" | Daily salon use | $175.00 | Smooth cutting action, comfortable grip |
| Katana Japanese Set | Complete styling kit | $285.00 | Includes both cutting and thinning shears |
Investing in trusted brands ensures durability and consistent performance.
Basic Cutting Tools
In addition to scissors, several tools are essential for working with curly hair:
- Wide-tooth combs for gentle detangling
- Sectioning clips (preferably with rubber tips)
- Fine-mist spray bottle to keep curls hydrated during the cut
- Microfiber towels to minimize frizz
- Cutting cape to keep clients clean
- Hand mirror for checking angles
For texturizing, the Hagane Straight Razor ($119.95) is a great choice. It helps create seamless layers while maintaining the natural curl pattern.
These tools are particularly useful for techniques like the DevaCut and curl-by-curl methods.
Pre and Post-Cut Products
Prepare the hair with these pre-cut essentials:
- Sulfate-free clarifying shampoo
- Deep conditioner
- Leave-in conditioner
- Detangling spray
For styling after the cut, use:
- Curl-defining cream
- Lightweight gel or mousse
- Heat protectant
- Anti-humidity spray
Selecting tools and products that suit your specific curl type and texture is crucial. Trusted brands like Saki Shears offer reliable options for both professionals and those styling at home.
Curl-Specific Cutting Methods
Cutting techniques tailored for curly hair work with the natural texture to enhance its shape and definition.
DevaCut Steps
The DevaCut method is designed specifically for curly hair, focusing on cutting dry, styled hair to maintain the natural curl pattern. Here's how professionals approach it:
1. Preparation
Start with clean, styled hair. Use a sulfate-free shampoo, a nourishing conditioner, and a light styling cream. Allow the hair to air-dry or use a diffuser on low heat.
2. Sectioning
Divide the dry hair into four sections using clips to ensure the entire head is evenly addressed.
3. Cutting Process
Begin at the back, working through small horizontal sections. Cut each curl individually as it naturally falls. For crown areas, lift curls upward to maintain volume and shape.
"The DevaCut is a dry hair cut created especially for curly girls. The haircut involves cutting the hair curl-by-curl (e.g., sculpted curl by curl). The Deva Cut focuses on framing the face and ensuring that every curl looks its best."
This technique ensures precision by focusing on each curl one at a time.
Single Curl Cutting
This method enhances curl definition by cutting each curl at its natural angle without stretching.
Steps include:
- Holding each curl at its natural angle
- Cutting straight across the curl pattern
- Applying consistent tension
- Working systematically from back to front
This technique is especially effective for tight coils or highly textured hair, as it allows for precise shaping while keeping the natural curl intact.
Creating Layers and Movement
After shaping individual curls, layering techniques can be added to build volume and avoid the dreaded "triangle" shape. Stylists often combine different methods for the best results:
| Technique | Purpose | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Point Cutting | Softens edges and reduces bulk | Medium to loose curls |
| Slide Cutting | Creates smooth, blended layers | All curl types |
| Vertical Layering | Breaks up dense, heavy sections | Thick, dense curls |
"It's really important to seek a professional who has had the proper training to really understand curls and coils." - Ashley Brown, curly hair expert, Sam Villa Ambassador and Mizani Artist & Texpert
Post-Cut Care and Styling
Styling Product Application
The first 15 minutes after washing your hair are crucial for defining and shaping your curls. Start with clean, wet hair, and layer your products thoughtfully.
"Curl creams are often more moisturizing and contain conditioning properties to help curls be the best version of themselves".
Here’s a simple layering guide:
- Step 1: Use a lightweight curl cream ($16–$46) to hydrate your curls.
- Step 2: Add a medium-hold gel or foam for better definition.
- Step 3: Finish with a stronger hold product if you want your style to last longer.
Some popular products include:
| Product Type | Best For | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Curlsmith Hold Me Softly Style Balm | Light Definition | $28 |
| DevaCurl SuperCream | Medium Hold | $34 |
| Curlsmith Strong Hold Gel | Maximum Definition | $28 |
Once you’ve applied your products, the way you dry your hair will make a big difference in how your curls look.
Proper Drying Methods
The drying process can either enhance or disrupt your curls. Here are some effective methods to try:
- Microfiber Towel Method: Use a microfiber towel to gently squeeze out excess water. Avoid rubbing your hair, as this can cause frizz. Microfiber is gentler than traditional terry cloth towels.
- Plopping Technique: After applying your styling products, wrap your hair in a microfiber towel or a cotton t-shirt for 20–60 minutes. This helps your curls take shape while absorbing extra moisture.
- Diffusing Tips: For quicker drying and more defined curls, use a diffuser on low heat. Keep the diffuser about 6 inches away from your hair, scrunch curls upward, and avoid touching them until fully dry.
Once your hair is dry, maintaining your curl pattern is all about consistent care between cuts.
Between-Cut Maintenance
To keep your curls looking their best, use a silk bonnet or pillowcase while you sleep. For longer hair, try loosely gathering your curls into a 'pineapple' style using a silk scrunchie.
Weekly Care Tips:
- Deep condition once a week.
- Use a protein treatment every 4–6 weeks.
- Refresh your curls as needed between washes.
"Dryness is the number one challenge when it comes to curly hair, so my go-to tip is to apply plenty of product".
For areas where your curls need extra help, apply heavier products. Use lighter formulas where your curls are already well-defined.
"All curls have different curl patterns, which makes every head of curly hair different", says Stephanie Angelone, Master Stylist at The Salon Project.
These steps can help you maintain the salon-fresh look of your professionally styled curls.
Conclusion
Cutting curly hair successfully comes down to choosing the right method, using high-quality tools, and keeping the hair properly hydrated. Techniques like the DevaCut and Rezo Cut have brought a fresh approach to caring for curly hair.
For precision and to minimize damage, invest in professional-grade shears made from Japanese steel with ergonomic designs. These typically range from $125 to $285.
Here are the three main factors for achieving a great curly haircut:
- Choosing the Right Technique: Go for the DevaCut if you want face-framing layers or the Rezo Cut for more volume and movement.
- Using Quality Tools: Sharp, professional shears and proper sectioning tools are a must.
- Maintaining Moisture: Keep curls hydrated throughout the cutting and styling process.
As hairstylist Victoria Pineiro from The Salon at Ulta Beauty explains:
"When you get into layering, there is the act of over direction that may not translate as seamless as a professional doing it instead."
To keep your curls looking their best, schedule trims every 3–4 months and stick to a solid care routine. This should include the right styling products, proper drying methods, and regular deep conditioning to maintain the shape of your cut and enhance your natural curl pattern.
Every set of curls is different, requiring tailored care. Whether you're a stylist or handling your own hair, these steps will help you achieve healthy, defined curls.
