The Best Hair Cutting Techniques for Curly Hair
Cutting curly hair is all about working with its unique texture and patterns to avoid common issues like frizz, uneven lengths, and the "triangle shape." Here’s what you need to know:
- Top Techniques:
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Key Considerations:
- Cut curls in their natural, dry state to manage shrinkage.
- Use tools like sharp precision shears and sectioning clips for clean, damage-free results.
- Understand curl types (wavy, curly, coily) to tailor the cut.
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Tools You’ll Need:
- High-quality shears (e.g., Saki Precision Shears).
- Wide-tooth combs, sectioning clips, and diffusers for styling.
-
Post-Cut Care:
- Use curl creams, gels, and deep conditioners to maintain shape and reduce frizz.
- Dry using plopping, diffusing, or air-drying methods to enhance curl definition.
Quick Comparison of Techniques:
| Technique | Best For | Benefits | Tools Needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| DevaCut | Defined natural curls | Preserves each curl’s shape | Precision shears |
| Rezo Cut | Volume & flexibility | Adds lift and balance | Circular cutting tools |
| Single Curl | Mixed curl patterns | Customizes each curl’s definition | Sharp precision shears |
What is a DevaCut? Professional Curly Hair Cutting Technique Explained
Curly Hair Basics
Understanding curly hair's structure requires specific cutting techniques tailored to its curl type and pattern.
Curl Types and Patterns
The shape of hair follicles determines curliness: flatter follicles create looser waves, while oval ones result in tighter curls. Hair specialists generally divide curls into three main categories:
| Type | Description | Cutting Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Type 2 (Wavy) | S-shaped waves, from loose (2A) to more defined (2C) | Cut dry with soft layers to maintain wave shape |
| Type 3 (Curly) | Springy curls, from loose loops (3A) to tighter corkscrews (3C) | Cut dry, following the natural curl clusters |
| Type 4 (Coily) | Tight coils, ranging from S-shaped (4A) to Z-shaped (4C) | Handle gently to prevent breakage |
Many people have a mix of curl patterns on their head. Rolanda Wilkerson, Senior Scientific Communication Manager at Procter & Gamble, explains:
"The shape of our hair follicles and the way the hair emerges from the follicle is a major contributor in the degree of the hair curl pattern, its shape, and ultimately what we describe as texture".
These classifications help stylists use techniques that work with, rather than against, the natural curl.
Common Cutting Problems
Cutting curly hair comes with specific challenges that require careful solutions:
- Shrinkage Management: Curly hair often shrinks significantly when dry. To ensure the desired length, it's crucial to cut hair in its natural state.
-
Pattern Preservation: Each curl type needs a different approach:
- Type 2 waves benefit from gentle layers.
- Type 3 curls should be cut following their natural groupings.
- Type 4 coils require consistent moisture and careful sectioning.
- Technical Errors: Mistakes like over-texturizing, improper razor use, or applying too much tension can disrupt the curl pattern.
Stylists should aim for even length around the head to "liberate curls from the root and ensure even growth".
A study by the L'Oréal Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research, which analyzed 2,449 subjects across 22 countries, identified eight distinct hair shape types. This diversity underscores the need for customized techniques to suit each client's unique curls.
Understanding these challenges is key to mastering advanced cutting methods.
Professional Cutting Methods
Modern techniques for cutting curly hair focus on working with natural curl patterns. Each method is tailored to specific curl types and desired styles. Below, we break down these methods and the tools required to execute them effectively.
DevaCut Steps
The DevaCut technique introduced a dry-cutting approach specifically designed for curly hair:
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Initial Assessment and Preparation
Hair should be clean, styled, and completely dry to showcase its natural shape. -
Sectioning and Cutting
- Divide the hair into four main sections using alligator clips.
- Work through small horizontal subsections.
- Cut each curl individually to maintain consistent length.
-
Face-Framing and Finishing
Focus on framing the face while preserving the natural curl structure.
Rezo Cut Guide
The Rezo Cut is designed to balance volume and shape, working well for both curly and straight looks. Victoria Pineiro, a hairstylist at The Salon at Ulta Beauty, explains:
"The Rezo Cut is suitable for most to all lengths. Its principles are based on body and volume while creating balance. That can play its part in creating bobs, pixies or cascading lengths."
This method uses a circular cutting pattern, triangle sectioning, and root liberation to enhance volume and symmetry while offering styling flexibility.
| Feature | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Circular Cutting Pattern | Ensures balance and symmetry |
| Triangle Sectioning | Boosts natural volume distribution |
| Root Liberation | Promotes free movement of curls |
| Versatile Styling | Retains shape whether curly or straight |
Due to its detailed cutting pattern, the Rezo Cut can take up to three hours to complete. It works best for hair types 2B and above, particularly for medium to thick hair densities where added volume is desired.
Single Curl Cutting
Single Curl Cutting focuses on trimming each curl individually, offering a personalized approach for varying curl patterns:
- Hair is cut in its natural, dry state.
- Each curl is trimmed separately to achieve the desired shape.
- The natural curl pattern is preserved for better definition.
To get the best results, clients should arrive with their curls in their natural state - hydrated and styled - so the stylist can accurately assess how each curl behaves.
Required Tools and Equipment
Having the right tools is key to making clean, damage-free cuts on curly hair. High-quality equipment ensures you can maintain the shape and bounce of curls while achieving precise styling and sectioning.
Hair Shears Selection
Saki Shears' Japanese steel scissors, starting at $285.00, are a top choice for their sharp blades, ergonomic design, and adjustable tension - perfect for cutting curls one by one.
Here’s what to look for:
| Feature | Benefit | Impact on Curly Hair |
|---|---|---|
| Sharp Precision Blade | Clean, accurate cuts | Reduces split ends and frizz |
| Ergonomic Handle | Less hand fatigue | Improves control for detailed work |
| Adjustable Tension | Customizable cutting experience | Adapts to various curl patterns |
| Premium Steel (440C/VG-10) | Long-lasting sharpness | Keeps curls intact |
In addition to shears, the right sectioning and styling tools can elevate your technique.
Sectioning and Styling Tools
For sectioning, must-haves include double-hinged XL clips, wide-tooth combs, a fine-mist spray bottle, and a diffuser attachment for managing and styling curls.
The Curl Keeper Flexy Brush, priced at $21.00, is a standout for gently detangling wet hair without causing breakage.
Specialty Shears Guide
Specialty shears are essential for advanced techniques. Use precision shears for layering, regular shears for point cutting, and sharp precision shears for cutting dry hair. Experts advise caution with thinning scissors, as they can cause split ends and disrupt natural curl patterns if not used properly.
| Technique | Tool | Best Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Layering | Precision Shears | Reducing bulk while keeping curls defined |
| Point Cutting | Regular Shears | Adding texture and soft edges |
| Dry Cutting | Sharp Precision Shears | Enhancing the natural curl flow |
When texturizing is needed, shears with fewer teeth (25–30) offer better control and minimize over-thinning. However, layering is often the preferred method to maintain the natural structure of curls.
Post-Cut Care and Styling
Keep your curls looking their best with the right products and techniques to minimize frizz and damage while maintaining shape, bounce, and definition.
Recommended Hair Products
Here are some top picks for curly hair care:
| Product Type | Recommended Option | Price | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Curl Cream | Rizos Curls Defining Cream | $22.99 | Adding definition & moisture |
| Mousse | Herbal Essences Totally Twisted | $9.99 | Fine curls & boosting volume |
| Gel | Kinky Curly Curling Custard | $19.99 | Long-lasting hold |
| Serum | Seen Magic Serum | $36.00 | Smoothing & adding shine |
To use, apply a quarter-sized amount of curl cream to damp hair. Work it in with a scrunching motion to enhance your curls. For touch-ups between washes, lightly mist your hair with water mixed with a leave-in conditioner to refresh your style.
Drying Methods
How you dry your curls plays a big role in defining them and keeping frizz at bay. Try these techniques:
- Plopping: Use a clean cotton T-shirt to wrap your curls close to your scalp. This method helps reduce frizz, enhance curl patterns, and remove extra moisture.
- Diffusing: Attach a diffuser to your blow dryer and use medium heat. Scrunch your curls gently while drying to speed up the process without losing curl shape.
- Air-Drying: Let your hair dry naturally after applying styling products. Avoid touching your curls while they dry to prevent frizz.
- Microfiber Method: Swap your regular towel for a microfiber one to gently scrunch out water. This reduces friction that can lead to frizz.
These methods help set the stage for maintaining your curls between cuts.
Between-Cut Maintenance
Proper care between trims keeps your curls looking defined and healthy.
- Trims: Schedule a trim every 6–8 weeks to avoid split ends and maintain your curl shape.
- Deep Conditioning: Use a moisturizing deep conditioner weekly to keep curls elastic and prevent breakage.
"Regular trims are essential for maintaining the shape and health of curly locks. They help prevent split ends and breakage..." - Controlled Chaos
Refresh your curls daily with a leave-in conditioner and limit heat styling. If you need to use heat, apply a heat protectant to shield your curls from damage.
Summary
Cutting curly hair requires a deep understanding of its unique texture and the right tools for the job. Techniques like the DevaCut and Rezo Cut are specifically designed to work with natural curl patterns, offering tailored solutions for different styling needs .
Investing in high-quality tools is essential for precision. Options like the Saki Velora Wine Colored Hair Shears Set ($279.00) and the Ultimate Diamond Damascus Steel Hair Cutting Scissors ($699.00) are designed to handle the intricacies of curly hair cutting.
Here’s a quick comparison of popular techniques:
| Technique | Best For | Key Benefits | Recommended Tools |
|---|---|---|---|
| DevaCut | Natural curl patterns | Defines curls and frames the face | Saki Precision Shears ($255.00) |
| Rezo Cut | All curl types | Adds volume and allows flexible styling | Saki Kanzen Damascus Shears ($355.00) |
| Single Curl | Detailed shaping | Offers precise curl definition | Saki Kohana Damascus Steel Shears ($355.00) |
Maintaining tools and educating clients are just as important as mastering techniques. Stylists should clean shears daily and have them professionally sharpened every six months. Clients, on the other hand, need guidance on maintaining their curls between appointments, such as using the right products and avoiding excessive heat.
For the best results, pair these cutting methods with proper styling products and drying techniques. The Rezo Cut is especially versatile, working well with both curly and straightened styles. It also lifts curls from the root, creating natural movement.
To keep curls looking their best, regular deep conditioning treatments and minimal heat styling are key. These steps help preserve both the health of the curls and the integrity of the cut.
